Belgium-Leuven 2004

Belgium: Leuven Brussels Ghent Bruges Antwerp

Leuven, Belgium 2004

Let us begin with Leuven, our home away from home and our base of operations for touring the northern part of Belgium. Leuven is a small gem and Belgium (at least the Flemish part) in microcosm. The cobblestone streets, the shops, squares, restaurants, medieval cathedrals and other buildings are similar to those we would see in Antwerp (Dutch: Antwerpen), Ghent (Dutch: Gent), Bruges (Dutch: Brugge), and Brussels (Dutch: Brussel). By far, I took most of my photos in Leuven, and we spent more time here than in any other place for the simple reason that we returned here every evening and we walked through the old town at least twice a day.

Not once did we get into a car. We walked. Though there are roads through the old part of town, we saw almost no traffic; automobile traffic was largely limited to the modern roads around the periphary of Leuven (marked in yellow in the map below). The squares where we ate and shopped were mercifully free of traffic and the ever present smell of gasoline that is so omnipresent in Amercan cities. We and the locals ate out of doors in fair weather and rain (all the restaurants have awnings that could be extended in inclement weather) without the sound of cars to ruin the dining experience.

Click on the map above to see a larger version in a separate window.

To the left is a map of the center of Leuven (courtesy of Google Maps). I marked our daily walk from the Begijnhof Congreshotel to the Leuven train station in red.

As the text and images below describe it took us through the cobblestoned medieval quarter of Groot Begijnhhof, past St. Anthony's Chapel, the Oude Markt, the Grote Markt (where we ate many a dinner), St. Peter's Church and the Town Hall, that I marked in blue on the map, then onto a modern street lined with shops and businesses (Bondgenotenlaan) that led to the train station. This was a 2.5 kilometer walk, about 1.5 miles, that took us less than 30 minutes.

The weather was splendid during most of our stay, raining on only two afternoons. In the event of inclement weather, one could always use an umbrella or drive on Leuven's circle highways (colored yellow) that surround the old city in concentric circles. That was never an issue for us, and we enjoyed the daily walk in both directions.

Please enjoy the pictures below.

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Begijnhof Congreshotel (Beguine Hotel): Our home while in Belgium from which we explored by train Antwerp, Brussels, Ghent, and Bruges in the Flemish part of the country (Flanders).
Ancient medieval cobblestone streets opened up behind the Begijnhof Congreshotel and led through the Groot Begijnhof (Great Beguinage) into the center of Leuven. We walked this way each morning and evening to the train station as we went on our daily adventures.

The Groot Begijnhof, a community of lay Catholic women who took temporary vows of chastity and obedience, was established in the early 13th century. It was restored between 1964 and 1989 by the Catholic University of Leuven. Most of the buildings date from the mid-17th century. It now houses students and university staff in about 100 buildings, and since 1998 it has been recognized by UNESCO as a world heritage site.
The Oude Markt (Old Market square) was under reconstruction while we were there, though it was always very lively at dusk when the restaurants opened.
The Grote Markt (Grand Market) is the central square in Leuven, where we often took our evening meal, watching the locals come out for dinner, beer, and conversation at sunset, and itinerant musicians performing for the restaurant patrons.
The Grote Markt is framed by Sint-Pieterskerk (Saint Peter's Church) and its fascinating clock tower and the magnificent Stadhuis (Town Hall), the latter seen here during the day and lit up at night. We enjoyed watching the gilded fellow on the church clock tower strike the bell on the quarter hour as we ate.
The Kruidtuin (Botanical Garden), founded by Leuven University in 1738 to grow herbs for its medical students, is the oldest in Belgium. Also note the incredible numbers of tulips.
Sint-Antoniuskapel (Saint Anthony's Chapel), the "Fonske" statue (the Font of Knowledge), the bustling city center behind Saint Peter's Cathedral, shops across the street from the Leuven Train Station, and more tulips in front of the train station.

On to the capital city of Belgium, Brussels, the bi-lingual enclave within Flanders that is only a short train ride from Leuven.

Belgium: Leuven Brussels Ghent Bruges Antwerp